Kaedebonsai-en - Seedlings

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Kaede Bonsai has changed its website URL to: kaedebonsai-en.com

The link in the beginning of this post no longer works.

If you live in a space where many street lights and buildings produce a dim ambiance, you will definitely understand this issue. However, this hurdle can be easily overcome by using a best star projector. These are versatile devices that we can effectively integrate into our living spaces. They can project high-definition images of interstellar objects directly onto the ceiling or walls, giving pleasant visuals.

Yes, we are in different times without in person exchanges. If you would send a phone number, then I will call to set this up.

Getting ready for tomorrow's youtube amateur bonsai enthusiast exchange with hostess out of England.

We can certainly do next weekend, @p.ayersmenk. Also, I’m not completely sure the best way to share contact information so we can connect outside the forum. I’ll check into that between now and then.

Duncan, sorry that's porcelain tiles not ceramic tiles.....

Mike, thanks for clarifying. I can see the ceramic potshards won't work as not flat enough for this purpose. Have put Daconil on my list. Don't like chemicals, but, am learning to adjust for the betterment of this hobby.

Duncan, I do have many ceramic tiles left over from an over bought bathroom project. Yours for the taking. I'm about 4 miles outside Parker.

For Gardners at Large: item I need to get rid of a 50# feed bag full of twine. Lengths are around 5 feet. Take as much as you want. The gardners who have used them love them to tie up vegetable plants, etc.

Also plenty of horse manure....don't laugh. Gardners swear by this usage including a friend who works for a city park and says it doesn't have to compost.

And that to start your day😊

Thanks, David for the Word idea and the link to Int'l bonsai's seedling sale. (Very bad on the pocketbook!) Yes, would be nice to have more details about pests and diseases. It seems one conquered, another pops up.

In re-reading your remark, Mike, and think it through. Would this be a good place to use old broken pieces of ceramic pots for the root base of seedlings? In the past have used them to cover hole(s) in houseplant pots.

I just keep a Word doc and then folders with pictures from my phone. There are apps, but I haven't found them to really do more than what I do.

Hopefully we will have a program/forum/blog on pests and disease later in the year.

Mike,

When you speak of "tile" for seedlings containers are you addressing ceramic/porcelain as in use for kitchens and bath? If not, please describe.

Also, wonderful education to read these posts. How do you keep records of all your collection? I've been keeping a journal, but then have a small collection.

Got a nice wet snow last evening after so many days 50 and above. Concerned after listening to Bjorn for Chinese lilacs (not bonsai)that had mildew on them last year. treated them with spray, but wasn't successful. Anyone used a lime sulphur fungicide that he mentioned, with success here?

Pauline

Definitely, I think that’s a great idea David. I’m also prone to starting experiments and then......haha. This will give me a little motivation to do some actual ‘scientific’ research!

Would you consider putting together a forum or blog post this fall talking about your experience this year and plans for next year with seedlings? I am asking now because taking pictures through the course of the year would be an excellent way to present to others who are interested.

Great points David, and completely agree that pot size and soil preference depends on many factors and is an individual choice. For nursery scale production (50K - 100K seedlings in this case), ease of watering, space constraints and costs of materials and subsequent shipping all factor into his decision. I believe he is wary of overpotting, but obviously the climate out east is more humid than Denver and his pots won't dry out nearly as quickly. I bought some flats specifically sized for 2 1/2" pots this year, so hoping that gives the bare root whips good stability and ease of moving them around in the event of a late Denver freeze or snowfall.

My goal with the 1-gal fabric pots is to use the air pruning abilities of the fabric and try to get good radial root growth without pots rapidly becoming root bound leading to a coarser root structure. I will plant on tiles and will partially bury some fabric bags and keep some above ground, but plan to overwinter in my garage, so don't really need to worry too much on ability to overwinter with really cold temps (bomb cyclone or whatever comes next!).

I was reading some good material recently from Peter Tea where he discusses his 2 laws of bonsai soils and how they affect growth, paraphrasing here:

1. Trees will grow slower if soil stays wetter for a long time

2. Trees will grow faster if soil is wet for a shorter time.

How you achieve an adequate wet/dry cycle can vary with species, maturity of specimen, pot size, substrate and watering frequency, but he was discussing in the context of utilizing substrate to account for those differences.

I am certainly no expert on growing fat trunks, but this is a great discussion and hope everyone reports back as the growing season progresses!

I just received a bunch of seedlings from kaedebonsai-en, Matt Ouwinga the owner recommends potting up the bare roots in 2 1/2“pots which is what he sells size wise for the potted plants. The 2 1/2” potted trees all look ready for a transplant, mine will be going into 1 gal grow bags with a well draining mix In another month or two. i think Matt is using a turface-type product with some pine bark in it but I do not know his specific mix.

I will try it. I have to admit some of these projects start off with the best intentions and then life gets in the way and a year or two or three has passed.

I have just used a slow release fertilizer equal NPK. I chopped them because an earlier attempt got chomped by a deer and ended up with a nice fat little trunk. Do they like a more acidic soil?

It is a nice day so I was outside and snapped this picture. They are a cross of Bur and Gambel oak I bought from Idaho in 2015. They are in an Anderson flat in a mix of 1/3 pumice, lava, and shredded bark (a product called Soil prep). I bought them in 2015 and they were less that 1/8 inch diameter. Those lower trunks now are maybe 3/4 inch. I haven't really done anything except water, fertilize, and prune back. I planted 5. The 2 on the top right have possibilities with some decent trunk movement. The leaves are smaller than Gambel oak in the landscape but still large in scale. I have not tried to reduce them. Perhaps this year with one of the other 3.

Pot size depends on what your trying to do with your seedlings. David's approach is perfectly acceptable depending on your objective. Anderson pots are good for putting on size. They are also lighter when carrying them around then a hand built wooden pot of the same size.

You should also include some Plant Tone an organic fertilizer in your soil mixture. Use it though out the growing season. You should also get some of this Azalea fertilizer to use in case your leaves start turning yellow. Be very careful when using this one with your small seedling trees, to much might just might burn and kill them. Do not use on accent plants either.

You can also buy seedlings here

http://www.internationalbonsai.com/

and here

https://www.uidaho.edu/cnr/center-for-forest-nursery-and-seedling-research/pitkin